Fructose, especially in the form of high fructose corn syrup (HFCS), has been so vilified recently that the Corn Refiners' Association (CRA) felt that it needed to publish its own
website on the benefits of HFCS. Like Dr. Appleton's article, it is undoubtedly biased, but its numerous citations from sources such as the Journal of the American Dietetic Association prove that this bias is at least better controlled than in Dr. Appleton's article. The CRA website explains how consumers benefit from the use of HFCS, and also presents counterarguments to claims made by HFCS's detractors.
In addition to sweetening foods, HFCS is used to improve freshness, texture, browning, stability, viscosity, and fermentation. It inhibits microbial growth, and prevents freezer burn. Texture is improved because high fructose corn syrup maintains moistness, enabling goods such as cookies to remain soft and chewy longer than with other sweeteners; in general, products containing HFCS remain stable despite unfavorable temperatures or acidity. HFCS also improves the viscosity of liquids that would otherwise be difficult to pour, such as ketchup and "frozen" concentrates, which remain liquid in the freezer due to HFCS's low freezing point. Finally, baked goods containing HFCS brown better and (for reasons that the CRA says are often overlooked) taste sweeter. High fructose corn syrup is about half fructose and half glucose, but because yeast prefer glucose to fructose most of the sugar that remain after baking is fructose, which makes the finished product sweeter.
The CRA's website also responds to some of the criticism HFCS has received. It refutes, for example, the alleged link between HFCS and obesity by pointing out that although HFCS is purified to 90% fructose, the version that reaches consumers has been diluted with unrefined corn syrup to produce a fructose-to-glucose ratio comparable to that of the table sugar HFCS replaces—about 1:1. For this reason, although HFCS consumption has indeed risen, the consumption of the basic monosaccharides into which all sugars are broken before absorption has remained about the same. It supports this defense of HFCS with an article on a Virginia Tech University study that connected the rising American obesity rate not with any specific food but with a sedentary lifestyle and demographic factors.
One of the very few failings of this website, which otherwise provides a well-written and very much needed reply to an otherwise lopsided discussion of high fructose corn syrup, is its statement that HFCS is a "natural" sweetener. The "natural" dialogue is a classic example of what a programmer would call "garbage in, garbage out," but the CRA manages to keep its response garbage-free until the very last sentence. It reads, "By contrast, products that […] are chemically modified are not considered natural." (
link)
Corn refiners apparently operate under a different understanding of chemical modification. To produce HFCS, starch, a very large polymer of glucose, is first cleaved into short glucose oligomers and then into individual glucose molecules by the enzymes alpha-amylase and glucoamylase, respectively. The glucose solution is then passed over columns of glucose-isomerase, which converts about half of the glucose into fructose. Here are two chemical modifications already: the cleavage of starch into individual glucoses, and the conversion of glucose into fructose. Furthermore, tracing the ingredients back into the corn plant, the starch was assembled from glucose monomers, which were in turn pieced together one carbon at a time from carbon dioxide within the plant's chloroplasts. All of these are chemical modifications.